Five Ten Anasazi Guide Field Test
I've been experimenting with the Five Ten Anasazi Guide for the last few months. I used them straight out of the box on a new route a friend and I have been putting up above the Chamonix Valley, France. The rock type is limestone on a 650m wall. Each pitch we put up can take up to four hours of climbing and drilling. It’s vertical climbing on small edges and smears. For a new shoe, I was seriously impressed with the comfort. I have climbed on single pitch and multi-pitch limestone walls, as wall as having used them at altitude on pristine granite alpine grand courses, over two days at a time.
Considering that I have used the shoe aggressively on very abrasive rock and in harsh environments, I have not noticed major ware and tear either on the shoe's upper or rubber. That seems fantastic in itself. The shoes edge and sensitivity have worked really well for me on both tiny granite crystals and limestone edges. The rubber has been very effective.
Naturally, when climbing a long route in the heat of the day your feet will swell and I have had really uncomfortable pressure points building. I would expect this with most shoes unless bought a number of sizes bigger. Having said that, I managed the discomfort by loosening out the laces and it was never overwhelming.
I got them one size smaller then my general shoe size. Due to the synthetic material, they do not stretch much over time; it is really worth keeping that in mind. Do not buy them tight expecting them to stretch, as mine have not done so at all.
With some of the other models of Anasazi, such as the pinks, there can be an empty pocket in the heel. This was not the case with the Guides, as there is no wasted space, even though my foot is quite narrow and slender in the heel.
Bottom line is that this shoe suited me really well. But my advice; do not buy them without trying them on first. The brand that fits me might be a horrible fit for you. That said, if other Anasazi models work well for you, chances are these will too. Try on various sizes and remember they do not stretch much, if at all.
I will buy them again and again. Anasazi models have been around for a long time, and there is good reason for that!
By Rhys MacAllister
