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The Great Grade Debate: Pirmin Responds To Adam Ondra | Climbing Daily Ep.1114

Date
21st February 2018
21st Feb 2018
Comments
1
Grades are always hotly debated regardless if it's a 6a or 9a. Today we look at Permin Bertle's response to Adam Ondra's suggested downgrade of Meiose. As always we look at this week's climbing news and check out what's on EpicTV. Pirmin's Article here. Lisa's Articles here. Reunion Bouldering here. Scottish DWS here. Great deals on Climbing Gear here. The Great Grade Debate: Pirmin Responds To Adam Ondra | Climbing Daily Ep.1114

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Bertrand's picture
Guys please...reading 8a.nu headlines is not doing research! If you had done more serious research you'd have found that a big hold broke on Dreamtime in 2009 and most (but not all) climbers who repeated it after logged it as an 8C. And Jimmy skipped most of the new crimps to do it "oldschool". About the kneebar argument on Meiose it has more to do with kneebar skills and calf power than size (Adam is 185 cm and Pirmin 184 cm) or kneepad adjustments and Adam is just better at kneebar than Pirmin. But it shouldn't distract you from the fact that one of the the most important thing to take in consideration when talking about grades is experience and comparison with other routes. Adam climbed hundreds of 9a and harder routes, among them 17 9b, and Pirmin on the other side climbed only one confirmed low end 9a (La cabane au Canada) and all his FAs look massively overgraded. As stated by some people on 8a.nu since years, time and repetitors will tell how credible Pirmin's grades are (no matter if he agrees or not) but my prediction is that Meiose will see the same grade adjustement as Chilam Balam and probably will end up in the 9a/9a+ range. Wait and see.
Feb 22nd 2018
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