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Vlog 031 - The Irrelevance of Everything
Date
01st June 2017
01st Jun 2017
Comments
1
Of all the existing climbs and new routes I put up on our last trip to the USA, it's this one that gave me the most trouble. "The Irrelevance of Everything" climbs a short, steep wall at Fern Buttress, and is the epitome of 'designer danger'... only its all completely natural. Increasingly difficult boulder problems, each followed by a good rest, sculpted pockets that would be more at home at Buoux or Ceuse than on a sandstone wall in the south East USA, and just enough protection to make it justifiable all make this route one of the wildest rides around.
It took me quite a bit of time to even do the moves, and if just one of the holds or gear placements were not there, it might not even be possible! But they are, and it is, and thats what makes climbing so awesome!
Each placement is solid but further and further away from the last. Each section is run out to the point of no return, where you could either reverse a few moves and jump, or commit to the clip and better not fall! It's amazing to see hard natural walls like this, that just work perfectly on Trad, and even though this one might be a little easier than I hoped, it keeps me believing that my dream line is out there... somewhere...