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11th October 2013
11th Oct 2013
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Wendenstöcke is a BIG BIG climbing wall -- and Matteo Della Bordella and Fabio Palma are two climbers who have boldly opened routes on this monster wall. Hard, Long and Free are words that describe all the routes in Wendenstocke, but also Wild because of their engagement and the bivy they require in an isolated ledge of Mahren sector. The routes opened by Matteo Della Bordella are also very wild because of the necessity of bivyes, the length of the routes, the distance between protection. Matteo writes that 'About our opening style, I noted that, especially on pitches around grades 6 or 7, when tend to put a bolt just before a hard section and then we start climbing the hard section till it is over without putting anything in the middle, usually we put the other bolt in another position of rest...in this way, you create a route with bolts but with a strong alpinistic character, very different from a sport climbing route in mountain when bolts are almost always at a reasonable distance...' This explains why these routes are WILD HARD LONG and FREE. Climbing Wendenstöcke, Wild Hard Long Free | Infinite Jest, Ep. 1

Series description

Infinite Jest

Infinite Jest

4 episodes Latest 30th Dec 2013
1 follower

PORTAMI VIA, COELOPHYSIS and INFINITE JEST are the routes opened by Matteo Della Bordella and Fabio Palma from 2005 to 2011 The first one has been repeated only by Ueli Steck, Simon Anthamatten and Tommy Caldwell, all of them being strongly impressived by the challenging of the route. Coelophysis and Infinite Jest are among the wildest route of the Alps, with more than 600 meters of length and several challenging, hard and very severe pitch. These routes are much more than climbing routes, they are the prototype of the ideal combination between classic ( because sometime it's even hard to find the way to go) and modern ( because you need to climb difficult grades to reach the top). And these routes show all these factors in the magnificent environment of Wendenstocke, where there is the steepness of the Dolomites and the rock of Verdon.

All episodes from Infinite Jest