20th July 2015
20th Jul 2015
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Italian strong man Stefano Ghisolfi made a pilgrimage to the Spanish climbing mecca of Margalef to attempt a piece of climbing history. 'Demencia Senil' (9a+/5.15a), first established by Chris Sharma in 2009, is a monumentally steep roof climbed almost exclusively on small, sharp pockets. The brutal nature of the climbing means that it has seen relatively few repeats and even fewer since a crucial hold was broken. Stefano and fellow Italian Gabri Moroni are in Margalef to try the line, working out a new way past the broken hold and trying to dial in the insane mono-dyno that is the only way through the final section of roof. While Gabri is unsuccessful, Stefano puts in a precise redpoint effort and clips the chains. His story in Margalef is far from over however and he plans to return for another Sharma classic; 'First Round, First Minute' (9b/5.15b). So far this line has only been climbed by Chris Sharma and Adam Ondra, so a third ascent would be something truly special. Stefano Ghisolfi Repeats Chris Sharma's 'Demencia Senil' (9a+) | The Italian Climbing Files, Ep. 5

Series description

The Italian Climbing Files

The Italian Climbing Files

16 episodes Latest 16th May 2018

The Italian Climbing Files is a series of mini profiles of some of the best rock climbers in Italy. With in-depth interviews and fresh new climbing footage, it delves deep into the climbing culture of this storied land and gives you unprecedented access to its most compelling personalities.

All episodes from The Italian Climbing Files



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