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11th May 2015
11th May 2015
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Wolfgang Gullich, the defining force in climbing during the 1980's, visited Brazil in 1987. As was so often the case when Wolfgang visited a country, he left his mark on the place with an incredibly striking and extremely challenging route; 'Southern Comfort' (8b+/c). The route climbs a tenuous fissure with demanding moves on crimpy layaways and side-pulls. It is old-school in the extreme, requiring strong fingers and technical prowess to complete.
In recent years, the line had been rendered even more difficult by the loss of its starting section which was washed away by the waves. In this video, Brazilian strongman Felipe Camargo climbs the line by this new start on only his second attempt! However, there's even more reason to celebrate as visiting Spanish climber Paxti Usobiaga completes his journey back from injury with his first 8b onsight in more than three years! Whether it's the 1980's or the 2010's, it seems Brazil has a habit of bringing out the best in travelling climbers.
Felipe Camargo Repeats Wolfgang Güllich's 'Southern Comfort' (8b+/c) | The Thrill Of Brazil, Ep. 3