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The Story of Two Worlds, Martin Stráník
Date
20th November 2015
20th Nov 2015
Comments
0
Martin Stráník has repeated The story of two worlds, ~8C, David Graham's sit down start to The Dagger on the Dreamtime boulder at Cresciano, Switzerland.
"The story of two worlds was quite a great process over five days. I started with working on The Dagger and after two days it was done. After I tried the first moves of "Story" and though that I would be able to make a fast ascent, but temperature was not on my side... Every day I woke up early in the morning to give some serious attemps, but I wasn't even close.
Finally yesterday (17.11.2015), the temperature dropped and it was something different and much "easier". Now the problem was not a link to The Dagger but connected with all The Dagger moves. You know it is quite a long boulder...
Finally I was lucky to send it. I think that it is a soft 8C right now with all the beta there is, but still harder than 8B+.
It's interesting how this problem has gone from "hard 8C or even 8C+", via "the benchmark for 8C" to "soft 8C", and difficult to know how much of this change is due to new beta and how much is a widening of the 8C-grade."
Martin Stráník is sponsored by: High Point, Scarpa and Singing Rock
text: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=70094
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